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    How platespin server consolidation works

     

    It is no secret that servers can take up a lot of floor space, and power. As a result, they can sometimes seem inconvenient. One way to save space and power is to consolidate servers. Server consolidation is very important in order to ease some of the frustrations of overdue consolidation processes. Server consolidation projects can also be accelerated via automation and virtualization. Platespin server consolidation helps to accelerate consolidation projects, and reduce errors. This is done without actually having to have contact with the physical machines. Platespin allows managers to measure and evaluate resource utilization in order to speed up capacity planning for consolidation projects. This is accomplished by remotely gathering information about the server. This information can be the server operating system, memory, CPU speed, the network, and memory. Platespin server consolidation works on Windows NT, 2000, and 2003 systems. The system works without the help of agents. Therefore, the need to manually deploy software is eliminated. The risk of missing certain agent dependencies is also eliminated in this case. Platespin is also very simple and lightweight, so it can start to collect data in almost one minute. Platespin completely automates the physical to virtual migration of data. This allows the servers to be consolidated quickly and with more ease. There is a drag and drop interface that allows the user to convert machines running Windows or Linux into one fully functional virtual machine that is hosted on several types of servers. These servers include VMware GSX Server, Microsoft Virtual Server 2005, or simply a Platespin Flexible Image file. Network configurations, CPU cycles disk space, and memory allocations can all be converted rather quickly. This ease allows users to right-size target servers as the conversion process is occurring. As a direct result, data centers are made able to increase the number of servers that are able to be consolidated. This further optimizes resource utilization rates. Sever consolidation may seem complicated, but the right program can make it quite simple. Platespin automates many processes and allows many different factors to be converted quickly. This means that the total time for consolidating servers is reduced.

         
    How safe is safe

     

    There has been an increasing amount of emphasis in recent times on the subject of keeping the information on your computer safe. The terms Back-Up, Archive, Data Storage and Security being mentioned frequently, but what is all about? In simple terms, people are increasingly holding more and more information on their computers, be it photos, personal data and finance, business data, accounts, contacts, addresses and much more. What everyone needs to understand is that the information held on your computer is a very vulnerable entity and can be very easily and completely lost, either by component failure, malicious acts or theft. If loss of the information you keep on your computer would cause you distress, then you need to take steps to ensure it is kept safe and that you would be able to continue even if your computer was stolen. The only definite way of safeguarding against the many different kinds of threats is to have a copy of the valuable information and keep it away from the computer, this is commonly referred to as back-up. In case of loss, the information can then be restored to a computer from the safe back-up copy. A back up consists of an exact copy of this important data, kept on a separate storage medium such as a CD / DVD or an external tape or hard disk drive. Naturally, a back-up is only as good as the last time that you actually made a back-up copy, so it is common practice to create a new back-up frequently and overwrite the old copy. How frequently you do this depends on how often your valuable information changes, the more changes, the more frequent the back-up. A back-up can be performed manually by simply copying the data you wish to back-up to your chosen media, or the process can be automated by using specialist back-up software programmes. Back-up software allows you to select the data that needs to be backed-up, when to make the back-up and where to copy the backed-up data to, this set up can then be memorised by the back-up software. Backing-up your data then becomes a relatively quick and simple process. Many confuse back-up with "archiving". Archiving is where you transfer data, which is important enough to keep, but no longer required (e. g. old photos, old accounts) to an external, safe storage medium for future reference. The archived data is then removed from the computers main hard drive to free-up space. Whether backing-up or archiving, there is a choice of media you can record your copy on to: Floppy or Zip Disk A Floppy or Zip Disk drive provides a simple solution. The downside to this method however, is very limited recording space and not a particularly reliable or long-term solution. Recordable CD or DVD If you have a CD or DVD recordable drive, this is a better longer-term solution with more space. The downside is that the recording process can be a pain as you cannot just drag and drop and that you need CD's or DVD's to record on. This type of backup can be cumbersome, time consuming and sometimes frustrating, depending on the software and the quality of disks used. When using this method of backup, remember to check the disk you have transferred your data to, to make sure your computer can read the disc ok in future. USB Pen Drives Also known by various other names USB Pen Drives are an excellent low cost solution for smaller back-up purposes being easy to use and they are also great for transferring data from one computer to another. External USB Hard Drives For most users the best storage solution for back-up and archiving purposes is the USB external hard drive, being reliable, easy to install (just plug in to your USB port) and easy to use (just drag and drop your files to be backed-up). USB External Hard Drives are available in pocket or desktop sizes and storage capacities from a few Gb to 250Gb + offering a huge amount of recording space. Being a plug in device they can be easily disconnected and kept separate from your computer and out of harm's way. Some external USB Hard Drives like Iomega come packaged with back-up software too.

         
    How to download your old computer to the highest bidder

     

    When you think trash, you surely don’t think about your old, trusty personal computer. But that’s exactly what will become of it when you make the inevitable move toward your next laptop or desktop. And, yes, buying a new computer is inevitable, considering the pace at which computer technology zips along. Just think—about a handful of years ago, a fast microprocessor for a laptop was at 233 MHz. Now you’re looking at about at least 2 GHz! That’s Giga, with a G. So eventually, you will want a computer that can handle the latest software, the latest games, and the latest interactive Web sites, and then you’ll have to throw away your old computer, right? Wrong. Try selling your used computer instead. Throwing out your computer is one of the worst things you can do. For one, your computer may be useful for someone out there, even if just for scraps. Trashed computers and other digital equipment also make up one of the fastest growing, and most dangerous, new trash “categories” out there in your neighborhood landfall. On one hand, computers are generally bulky and made of plastic and other materials that won’t be breaking down in a landfill for the next few million years. What’s more, other materials in your old computer are highly toxic to the environment, like mercury, lead and cadmium. They’re so toxic that their actually name in the waste-management field is “toxics.” You don’t have to be a techie or a scientist to understand the danger in that—nor the benefits of selling your computer. On the Internet, there are a vast number of auction and classifieds sites, some better than others, where you can “download” you computer to a worthy buyer. Before you boot up your replacement laptop or high-performance PC, however, be sure you read and compute the following tips. These tips will help you avoid the crashes and shutdowns that befall the computer seller who doesn’t do his homework first. Hold onto all of the operating system and software manuals that came with your old computer. This will add value to your sale, not to mention it will make you a trusted seller for offering up these helpful books to the buyer. Erase all personal information from the hard drive. And we’re not just talking about simply putting stuff in the “trash bin.” It’s extremely important to purge all data from your computer’s memory repository, even from invisible backup files on the hard drive. If you’re not sure how to do this, ask your IT expert at work or a techie friend for advice. You don’t want the next user to have access to your bank accounts, old e-mails, and other private info, do you? Uninstall any application from the hard drive that you’d like to use on your next computer, keeping the installation disk and the software serial number for yourself. When it comes to software, the manufacturers made sure that you never really own software, you license it. So you don’t get free reign to keep software on multiple computers. You only get one license, so you need to bring your licensed version with you to your new computer. Do your homework on your computer’s worth. Just like you would for a car, check around at other classifieds and auction sites to see what other people are selling your make and model for. Be sure you want to truly get rid of old faithful. You may be able to repair your old laptop rather than buy a new $2,000 Centrino model. Or you may be able to add RAM memory and a new hard drive to your four-year-old desktop rather than invest in a new $3,000 multimedia masterpiece. In other words, do a thorough cost-analysis of what it would take to rebuild your old computer, versus what it would cost to sell it and buy a new one. And check your heart too. You might be surprised just how attached you are to your old faithful. Once you go through these steps, you are prepared to make your move and sell, sell, sell. And then, of course, you’ll be ready to start on a whole new list of steps—for buying a new computer. But that’s a topic for another article!

         
    How to buy the perfect pc

     

    : PCs have become a staple in every home. Without PCs, you will find it hard to stay connected and to even do the work required of you in school or in the office. With so much PC packages being shoved to our throat every time we go to department stores and computer shops, you’ll really get quite confused on what you really need and what PC package will fit your budget and lifestyle. To help you through this dilemma, here is a brief backgrounder of the parts of PCs that you should get to know. Processor. This is one of the three primary components of your PC. The processor is the part that determines how fast your computer process information. Intel is still the leading brand in processors but competitors such as American Micro Devices (AMD) are slowly catching up, offering cheaper alternative. In shopping for a processor, one should consider the following: Clock speed – this will show the number of instructions that a computer can execute in a second. This usually comes after the brand name. Processors nowadays are already set at the gigahertz range. Cache memory – this stores the data that were previously accessed. This simplifies the work of the computer as it would not take twice as long to access information already stored in memory bank.

    Without a cache memory, much of the work will fall on the RAM (Random Access Memory). Operating temperature – some processors easily heats up. Before buying, make sure that you have asked about the operating temperature just in case you need to buy additional fans or put the computer in an air-conditioned room. RAM (Random Access Memory). RAM serves as the temporary memory of the PC, containing information that are needed for the computer and the programs to function. In addition to processors, RAM also determines the speed of the computer. The higher the RAM, the faster the computer is in accessing information and responding to commands. Motherboard This is where all the parts of the PC’s CPU (Central Processing Unit) are attached. Some motherboards already have videocards and soundcards embedded on it while others don’t. what is important however is to choose a motherboard that is compatible with your RAM and processor. Incompatibility of PC hardware can cause major problems and may even lead to the breakdown of your computer. Hard drive. This is the part where you store all the information in your PC. Picture a floppy disk with much much larger storing capacity. The hard drive serves as the permanent memory of your computer. Here you install all your programs and save all the documents that you need. It is also important that you buy a hard drive with really big capacity especially now when people are so used to storing multimedia files that may use up a lot of hard drive space. Video cards This is the part of the computer which determines the quality of the multimedia images that you will view. The higher the memory of the video card, the better is the picture quality and the colors. Also, video cards are also responsible for how fast multimedia images are accessed. This is especially needed if you use your computer for multimedia activities such as watching a movie or playing video games.

         
    How to choose a good tuner from the bad

     

    Choosing a tuner for your system is of little difference from choosing other components. When auditioning other components, people are primarily concerned with their sound quality, not their technical performance. For example, if a preamplifier under audition sounds good, you do not need to worry much about its technical performance. Because. if it sounds good, then it is working well. Tuners, on the other hand, exhibit great variability in their technical performance. It will not only concern the tuner’s sound; tonal balance, sound staging, portrayal of timbre, etc., but also basic characteristics such as the ability to pick up weak or distant stations, reject adjacent stations, provide a noise-free audio signal, and stay tuned to a station without drifting. A tuner’s performance in these areas can be accurately characterized by measurement; this makes tuner specifications much more significant than those of other audio components. There is a direct correlation between a tuner’s specifications and its sonic performance. You still have to listen to the tuner before you buy, but you can often separate poor performing models from better units by looking at the specification sheets. Unlike most audio products, the best high-end tuners have more features, front-panel controls, and displays than the lower-end products. The price range for a good tuner from a mass-market manufacturer is between $400 and $1000. Some of the higher-end models from mass-market companies offer excellent performance. The price range from $750 to $1200 is very competitive, with many superb units to choose from. The very best tuners cost as much as $12,000. The differences between mediocre and excellent tuners. Good tuners are characterized by their sensitivity or the ability to pull in weak stations. The greater its sensitivity, the better it can pick up weak or distant stations. This aspect is more important in suburban or rural areas that are far from radio transmitters. On the other hand, a tuner characteristic of greater importance to the city dweller is adjacent-channel selectivity or the ability to pick up one station without interference from the station next to it on the dial. This specification defines a tuner’s ability to reject a strong station two channels away from the desired channel. When stations are packed closely together, as they are in cities, adjacent-channel and alternate-channel selectivity are more important than sensitivity. Equally important to all listeners is the tuner’s signal-to-noise ratio, a measure of the difference in dB between background noise and the maximum signal strength. A tuner with a poor signal-to-noise ratio will overlay the music with an annoying background hiss. A poor tuner will have trouble receiving weak stations, may lack the ability to select one station when that station is adjacent to another station, have high background noise, and be overloaded by nearby FM transmitters or other radio signal sources. Many tuners have a high-blend circuit that automatically switches the signal to mono when the signal strength falls below a certain level. The difference between high-blend and the mono/stereo switch just described is that the high-blend circuit puts only the treble into mono, leaving the rest of the spectrum in stereo. This gets rid of most of the noise, but maintains stereo separation through most of the midrange and bass. Lastly, all good tuners have a 75-ohm coaxial antenna input as well as the more commonly used 300-ohm flat-lead input. The coaxial input should be used for best signal transmission between the antenna and tuner.

         
    How to choose a right pda

     

    There are a few questions before buying a new PDA. You should consider them carefully and choose a right product as there are too many products in the market. Question 1 Budget? How much you are willing to spend will also be an important question. The more you spend, the more that your PDA will act like a laptop. That is not to say that if you spend little, that you cannot get much. The $99 PalmOne Zire 22 is capable as a replacement to the paper planner, as well as has the ability to play MP3s and carry large reference materials via the SD (secure digital) memory card slot. As a general rule, spending $100 will get you a basic PDA; up to $200 can get you a PDA with a camera, MP3 player, or included document editing abilities; up to $350 will net you a midrange PDA that can have wireless connectivity (wifi or Bluetooth) along with cameras, MP3 players, and full document editing; over $400 will get you enhanced screens (higher resolutions than lower models), dual wireless capabilities on some models, more included software, and much more memory (up to 128MB internally on some models) than lower priced models. Question 2 What to do with the PDA? When looking to purchase a PDA, you will want to figure out what you want to do with the PDA. Most people look at PDAs first because they help you to organize your calendar, tasks, and phone numbers. All PDAs do this well, and so other tasks should be looked at such as: carrying large references, mobile email and Internet, gaming, music play, or one that does all those things well. Once you have figured out what you will do with it, you should analyze your budget. Question 3 Need it as a mobile phone? Some people do not like the idea of carrying around a PDA and a mobile phone. They may like the functionality of a PDA, just in the form of a phone; or, the functionality of a phone in the form of a PDA. If you need to access the internet and would find getting email on the go as making things easier, then a smartphone or wireless PDA would work best for you. Many mobile phone companies offer smartphones with a discount if you get a contract with it. Question 4 need a keyboard built in? When purchasing a PDA, deciding how one wants to input data is very important. Though all PDAs have some form of handwriting recognition and a virtual keyboard, if you plan on sending a lot of email or editing documents, then you may want to look at the PalmOne Tungsten C, Treo 600, etc..(included accessory). All PDAs can also accept input from keyboard attachments. Question 5 battery life? Acceptable battery life is anything in over four hours of continuous usage. That will translate to 3-5 days of intermittent usage. Many PDA models will do this and better. There are different factors that go into getting the most out of your battery, such as: the screen resolution (the higher the resolution, the more power that is needed to keep the screen on); how bright you keep the screen; are you using the multimedia functions (they drain the battery faster); are you using wireless technologies (bluetooth uses battery power at a lower rate than wifi, though both drain the battery more than not using them). How you will be using the PDA you choose will determine how much of the battery that you will be using. Some Windows Mobile PDAs use removable batteries. You could use one battery while charging the other. Question 6 Does your business support using a PDA with a camera? These days, data security is very important within many organizations. If you are looking to purchase a PDA to use within a work setting, make sure that your organization authorizes its use, especially if the PDA you want has a camera. Many government agencies, and some health clubs, do not allow you to carry devices with cameras on them. Make sure that you do clear it with the IT and senior personnel of your organization. Hoping these few questions can help you choosing a right PDA

         
    How to choose printer paper

     

    Everybody wants to know about the correct inkjet cartridge for his or her printer, but what about printer paper? Inkjet and laser printers can print on a variety of surfaces, including photo paper, labels, business cards, stickers, and t-shirt transfers. One of the biggest advantages of laser printers is their ability to churn out quality prints on almost any paper. However, the same does not apply to inkjet printers. Although most of your inkjet printing probably involves standard white papers, when it comes to this medium, you may have more options than you realise. Inkjet Printer Paper Although standard printer paper can do the job as well, your printouts will probably be better if you use paper specifically made for inkjet printers. The quality of your printouts is affected by two major factors: brightness and absorption. 1. Brightness When a type of paper is advertised as being brighter than average, it indicates that the surface of the paper is smoother than average. The smoothness of the page determines the amount of light reflected from its surface. This factor also determines how bright your images appear on the page. The brighter or smoother the printer paper is, the better your printout will appear. 2. Absorption In this case, if the printer paper absorbs less ink, your document will definitely look better. As the paper absorbs ink, tiny dots on the page may spread outside their borders. This may cause the edges of text and images on the page to look fuzzy and soggy. To counteract this problem, quality printer papers are coated with a waxy substance that prevents the absorption of ink by the paper. A well-coated paper allows for more precise and smoother printing. In general, most of the printers on the market print at a higher resolution on coated paper than on standard paper. Branded Paper – To Buy or Not to Buy It's no secret that the big names in printers, such as HP, Canon, and Epson, offer a complete line of inks and papers. Each company claims that you will get the best results when you use its products with its printers, and warns you to steer clear of products sold by other companies. Generally speaking, they're right. In the case of inkjet printers, especially, companies design printers, inks, and papers to work together to yield the best results. If you use third-party paper with your inkjet printer from a big-name manufacturer, the ink may spread too far into the paper before drying, causing inaccurate colours, lower print resolution, and a dull finish. Plus, it is likely that the prints will fade faster. The choice, after all, lies with you. Printing great photos from an inkjet printer is a tall order, requiring a perfect match between the ink, paper, and printer to work together; and the companies don’t make it easy on the consumer’s pocket. You can reach the most economical solution through a little experimentation. Alternatively, laser printers can print plain text documents or draft-quality graphics with equal ease, and you can stock up on your local office supply store's bright white copy or laser paper to your heart's content. Getting Past the Jargon To find out if the paper package on the shelf is right for your printer, simply read the fine print that usually lists out the compatible companies and models. Moreover, if you are interested in high-quality photo printing, you can generally see if a particular paper makes the grade. For example, some papers may have unusual descriptions such as "swellable" or "cotton rag." Swellable paper is designed for high-quality photo printing—the coated surface actually swells as it absorbs ink. Cotton rag is ideal for inkjets that use pigment-based inks; most low-cost inkjet printers, on the other hand, use dye-based ink, so you should steer clear of cotton rag in this instance. High-quality paper also has a polymer coating—for both dye-based and pigment-based inks—that keeps the ink from spreading, and it protects the ink from fading over time. However, coated paper can take a number of hours to completely dry your prints. Better quality paper may also be advertised as acid-free and lignin-free; these indicate that your paper is more likely to give you the best image quality and the best overall life span. Checklist It is important to remember that most branded photo printer paper from corporate names, including well-known ones, is only suitable for printing at 1440 and 2880 DPI. Here is a simple checklist to help you when deciding the inkjet photo paper best suited to your needs. 1. Always check the DPI (Dots Per Inch) of the photo printer paper. DPI is an indicator of how much ink the photo paper can absorb per inch on the page. Using low DPI photo paper for high-resolution printing will result in poor quality prints. Usually, if the seller does not advertise the DPI of its inkjet photo paper and card, then it is likely that it is very low and therefore a lower grade paper. 2. Check that the photo paper is instant dry. Cheaper photo paper may not be designed to dry instantaneously and can result in colour running or smudging while the ink is soaking into the paper. Once again, if the seller does not advertise this feature, then it is likely that it is absent. 3. Decide the weight of inkjet photo paper you need. Although the weight of photo paper and card vary, the most common weights are between 120gsm to 280gsm. If you are printing in bulk, then 120gsm is usually sufficient and cost effective. If you are printing photographs at home, then 160gsm to 200gsm should suffice. Buy glossy printer paper if you want shiny pictures, and matt paper if shine is not an issue for you. As a general rule, bigger the weight is, thicker the photo paper or card will be.

         
    How to choose the best laptop accessories

     

    Copyright 2006 Titus Hoskins The notebook computer is coming of age. For the first time in history, notebooks or laptops are out-selling their bigger cousins, desktop computers. The rise in popularity of the notebook computer can be contributed to many factors: drop in prices, stiff competition, aggressive marketing, but perhaps the biggest factor - increased performance. With each new generation of notebooks, we are seeing some novel breakthroughs: dual core notebooks, PCI Express, Sonoma Chipset, increased storage, increased RAM, faster CPUs, better battery life and better wireless access including a Cellular Modem Connection. All these new innovations are making for a more powerful computer embodied in a sleeker smaller package that consumers want. However, as most notebook enthusiasts know, to get full enjoyment from your laptop or notebook computer - you must have certain essential accessories. These laptop accessories will greatly enhance your notebook experience and make for a much more satisfying all-around 'complete laptop'. Here's a wish list of laptop accessories you may want to consider purchasing: 1. Carrying Bag or Backpack - This is essential if you will be doing a lot of traveling. You might even want to consider a wheeled bag for those heavier laptops. Try to purchase a laptop carrying bag that has plenty of compartments for all those notebook peripherals. Always check to see if your laptop or notebook will fit! 2. Extra Battery - Since most batteries last less than 5 hours you will need an extra battery or two. You should also check out bringing along an external battery for your laptop. 3. Port Replicator - This is one essential you should consider buying for your laptop or notebook computer. It's a real hassle dealing with all those wires and connections on your laptop - that's where your port replicator or docking station solves your problem. Plug all your peripherals into the docking station or port replicator - connect and disconnect your laptop with ease without having to deal with all those wires and connections. A must have! 4. Auto and Airplane ac adapter - Another essential laptop accessory if you do a lot traveling, battery life on most notebooks is not great so having a handy source of ac power from your auto or from an airplane is a 'no-brainer'! 5. USB Hub - Some older model notebooks come with only one or two USB ports; if you need more - try a handy USB hub. It will give you more options. 6. Wireless Card - Most laptops and notebooks now come with a wireless card. Many top brands have 802.11a, 802.11b, 802.11g or all three! If your notebook doesn't have a wireless card, you can get a rather inexpensive 802.11b Linksys PC Card adapter for under $50. You may also want to check out the new Sony VAIO VGN-T350P - it has the world's first 'Cellular Modem Built In' - access the Internet thru your cell phone. It has an Integrated EDGE, Wi-Fi, and Bluetooth for the ultimate in wireless networking. EDGE stands for 'Enhanced Data for Global Evolution' thru the Cingular Wireless national network. 7. Optional External Hard Drive - Most notebooks or laptops now come with a 40 to 100 gig hard drives, but still if you download and save a lot of movies or songs you will take up that storage space quicker than you ever thought possible. If you need an extra hard drive for storage or back-up, try an external hard drive. 8. Optional External DVD Burner - Many laptops now come with a built in DVD drive but in case you need this extra for or DVD burning (movies, songs, videos, etc.) try an external DVD burner for your notebook. For maximum compatibility, try to get one that supports both DVD-R/RW and DVD+R/RW formats. 9. Optional Wireless Keyboard and Mouse - Might sound strange suggesting this option since most laptops already come with a keyboard! But depending on your notebook make and model, the keyboards on most notebooks are not the greatest to type with. It all has to do with the wrong angles and the shape of the laptop, so if you want a wireless desktop style keyboard and mouse, it is relatively cheap to buy. 10. Insurance! - If you do a lot of traveling, you may want to invest in some laptop insurance. Laptop theft is still a big problem and it's better to be safe than sorry. Acquiring any of these laptop accessories will greatly improve your notebook computer, making for a hassle-free computing experience that you will appreciate and enjoy much more. So don't skimp, instead, bring your laptop enjoyment up to its highest level by purchasing some of these much needed laptop accessories. You will thank yourself later!

         
    How to clear a stubborn inkjet printer clog

     

    Do you own an inkjet printer? Has the printhead ever clogged up on you, creating streaks or missing colors from your printing? Clogs can be incredibly frustrating. Normally when you find out you have a clogged printhead, it's because you're right in the middle of printing something important. It's one of those problems that you never ask for. It just seems to throw itself in your lap without warning, and then taunts you in your efforts to fix it. The printhead is the mechanism of your printer (or inkjet cartridge), where the ink actually comes out. For the most part, printhead clogs can be normally be flushed out with a couple of "head cleaning" cycles. A head cleaning cycle is a built-in function of your printer. It's a specialized routine meant to address this type of problem. This "cleaning cycle" works by sending a strong 'print signal' to your printer, while at the same time drawing a small vacuum from underneath. The combination of these two steps works in an attempt to suck out clogged ink from the printhead. From my experience, you'll probably need to run between 3 and 5 cycles to fully clear a clog. The location of the head cleaning cycle proceedure varies for each printer brand, so refer to your printer owner's manual for specific instructions to find yours. Check the index first. If you don't have your owner's manual anymore, you can check our your printer manufacturers website. Most likely, they will have your printer manual online. There are times however, when a few standard head cleaning routines don't seem to solve the problem. A stubborn printhead clog like this can be persistant enough to make you want to rip out your hair. For times like these, you'll need to pull out the big guns! For stubborn inkjet printhead clogs, there are various cleaners out there specifically for this purpose. These cleaners are formulated to disolve dried or "gummy" ink which may have accumulated from infrequent printer use, or even just a general build-up over time. I personally brought an old printer "back from the dead" using a product called 'Clog Buster'. It was a printer I had purchased off of eBay which apparently hadn't been used in awhile. I spent a few hours trying to revive the printer, and 'Clog Buster' was the only thing that worked when nothing else did. The only downside with using a cleaning product like this however, is that you usually don't have it in your immediate possession when the clog hits. Unless you have some already on hand, you'll have to wait for it to be shipped to you. In the meantime, your printing project will have to remain on pause until it arrives. (But maybe I can help...) The good news is that you MAY be able to solve the problem using some basic household products. In fact, Windex glass cleaner can actually work well for dissolving dried ink. What's the secret ingredient? Ammonia. Tough printhead clogs can usually be brought into submission by soaking the printhead in a solution of 50/50% ammonia and distilled water. A important word of warning... Ammonia is potent and powerful stuff. When working with ammonia, always make sure you've got adequate ventilation, and avoid mixing it with other chemicals. Very important. So, if your printhead is located on the inkjet cartridge itself, you'll want to soak the printhead in the 50/50 solution for an hour or two. If the printhead unit is located inside your inkjet printer itself, then you'll first need to remove the inkjet cartridges. After those are removed, put some of the solution into the top of the printhead (directly into the nozzle holes) and let it sit a few hours. Go ahead and put a little more into the printhead resting seat. (This is the rubber rectangle part that seals off the printhead unit while the carriage is in it's resting position.) If this initial soaking doesn't work, then repeat another time using 100% ammonia for up to one hour. Afterward, make sure to rinse completely with distilled water. If the clog doesn't immediately clear, go ahead and let the printer sit overnight and try it again the next day. Sometimes the clog will breakdown slowly and release later as the ammonia takes it's toll. Finally, for those of you wondering about the effectiveness of using alcohol to unclog cartridges and printhead -- here's a quick note... Alcohol won't work as well as ammonia, but may work better than a few cleaning cycles. The downside is that alcohol may actually dry out the plastics and metals in the printhead. This could actually increase the chances of clogging later on down the road. So try to avoid alcohol if possible.

         
    How to convert vhs to dvd with a dvd recorder

     

    : When preserving your favorite movies or memories, the standard used to be VHS video tapes. But with the advancement of DVD technology, the advantages of DVDs proved to outweigh those of VCR tapes. Video tapes can wear out over time, becoming bent, damaged or dirty. The cassette casings are vulnerable to damage as well, rendering the tape inside useless. Storage is easier with DVDs since they take up less space than videos. Not to mention the quality of picture and sound is higher on DVDs. So the question becomes, how do I convert my video tapes to DVDs in order to preserve them for my future enjoyment?

    There are several options. First, you could use a VHS to DVD conversion service that will do the transfer for you. However, if you have a great deal of videos to convert, over time you'll save money by doing the conversions yourself in the convenience of your home. The computer savvy among us will use their computer to transfer their videos to DVD. It requires copying the video to a digital file on the computer using an analog converter. The file gets compressed into MPEG-2 format before being burned onto a DVD. This method takes some time, but it does allow you to make changes to the video, like special effects or music, before you burn it to the DVD. Depending on the burning software that you use, you might be able to add a menu or other special features. However, the process can be quite slow because you have to transfer the file twice: first from the video to the computer and then again from the computer to the DVD. So in order to save time and effort, you can copy the tapes to a DVD without the use of a computer. There are two ways to do this:

    • The first involves buying a DVD recorder that allows input from another source. You simply connect your VCR by cable to the DVD recorder. Then while the video plays, it is also recording. If you choose this option, consider purchasing a video processor called a proc amp or a time base corrector. These devices stabilize and improve the quality of the analog video as it is fed to the DVD recorder and can greatly improve the resulting images that you get on the DVD.
    • The second option is to purchase a combination DVD/VCR recorder. It does the same thing as the previous option without needing to connect any cables. If you are planning to copy a lot of videos, it is worth your time and effort to find out what kind of processing the machine does to the analog signal from the video tape before it converts it to the digital signal that gets recorded in DVD format. You want the best possible result that you can get.
    If you do the conversion yourself, always follow the manufacturer's instructions to ensure you capture the video appropriately. Make sure that you have cleaned the heads of the VCR between copying videos. Old tapes carry a lot of dust or other particles that can clog up your VCR. And since you are copying directly from the video to the DVD, whatever picture quality issues you have with the video will appear on the DVD. Understand that if you have videos which are recorded at SLP (6 hours of video on a tape) you will not get the same quality of recording onto a DVD as if the video was recorded at SP (2 hours of video on a tape). If you find the quality is not acceptable for you, consider changing your method of converting videos to DVD. However, for many people, the time and energy saved in converting the videos on their own will outweigh any concerns over video quality.

         
    How to prepare surfaces for asset tags and asset label tags on computers it equipment

     

    In past articles we have talked about what asset labels or asset tags are and who should be using them. This article is designed to show people the best method of applying an asset label or asset tag. Failure to follow these instructions could mean that the labels will not work as expected. The most important element of applying any kind of security adhesive based identification device is the cleanliness of the surface. The surface needs to be free of dirt and especially any oils or grease as this will prevent a good bond ever being achieved. I have found that the best method of doing this is simply to clean the surface with an alcohol wipe. You can buy sachets quite cheaply. You simply open the sachet by tearing the top open and taking the alcohol cloth out. Then, gently rub the area of the equipment where you intend to apply the label. You will find that the alcohol may take 30 seconds to evaporate, however when this has completed the surface should be free of any contaminants. Now, as these labels are highly tacky you need to make sure you get the label on straight because, in some grades of materials - especially the void material and the destructible, it is impossible to reposition them without damaging them. Sometimes I recommend you mark out the corners with a little marker pen so you have a rough idea of it being on "square" - note, only do this before you wipe with alcohol as the ink in the pen itself may prevent the adhesive from grabbing. The next stage is to wait. With vinyl destructible labels tags I’d recommend 2 hours for 40% strength, 1 day for 60% strength and 3 days for 100% strength. It really does take that long for the adhesive to cure. For a voiding asset label tag you can usually test the tamper evidence immediately as the two-stage adhesive is immediately activated.

         
    How to properly install a new motherboard

     

    The motherboard is the most expensive computer component so be sure to treat and handle it with great care. There are a few things you should do to ensure no motherboard damage occur as you prepare for the installation. Be sure you have a clean, well lit, and level work place. Relax your mind and make this task both fun and educational. You will need such tools as a phillips screwdriver, maybe some needle nose pliers and the manual that came with the board. Most importantly you must remove any and all electrical static discharge from your body and clothes. Static electricity is a big problem and will quickly damage chips on your new board. PREPARING FOR THE INSTALLATION Preparing to work on your system envolves work area, lighting, and much more. One great danger is the chance of electrical static charge. But this will be no problem when this static buildup is properly removes. Remove this danger by grounding yourself. Touch the metal case of the system unit or better yet, touch a door nobt in your work area to remove all electrical static charge. Set down and carefully read your user's manual and familiarize yourself with your new motherboard and its layout. Taking this time will boost your motherboard installation performance ike you never thought. Study your new motherboard and keep the box it came in. Remove it from its protective wrap very carefully and without damaging the wrap. This is done just in case you need to return the motherboard. You may need to return the motherboard if you made any mistakes in the purchase. Does the holes of your new motherboard line up with the holes in the case? If there are any reason to return the board, you can simply put it back in the box to return. Make the installation of your new motherboard fun and prepare well. Go to ultimatepcrepair and click on the photos page to familiarize yourself with all of the components in the cmputer. Follow these procedures as a guildline to install your new motherboard. REMOVING THE OLD MOTHERBOARD First Turn on your computer and access your cmos setup. This is done as the computer counts its memory. Press the combination of keys to access your bios. once inside your bios, select "Standard CMOS Setup" and write down all information about your computer's drives. Make sure you get the density of your floppy drives and the type of hard drive you have. Once you have this, turn off and unplug the computer and remove the case. Second Study your system unit layout and you may want to take notes as your remove components and connections so that it will be easier when it comes to re-installing these components or connections. Go about unplugging the wires that are connected to your old motherboard. Remember to label any and all connections to make re-installing them easier later. Here's where its very important to take awhile to study your old and new boards before disconnecting anything. Third Carefully disconnect all drives and label the connectors if needed. Remove the drives and set them out of the way in a safe place. Place all small screws in a cup or something where them won't get lost. Carefully grasp the motherboard and give it a gentle tug upwards to be sure on connections, screws, or other devices are not interferring with the board's removal. Once you are certain there are no obstruction for the board to be removed, lift the board out of the system unit. Look to see if such components as the memory need to be installed onto the new motherboard. INSTALLING THE NEW MOTHERBOARD Installing the new motherboard is the reverse order of removing the old motherboard. Be sure you remove all electrical static discharge from you body and clothes. Inspect the new board for damage and to be certain it is the right motherboard for your computer. Carefully align the new motherboard with the system unit case and secure the board. Be careful not to secure the screws too much. Install the CPU chip if it is not installed on the board from the manufacturer. Connect the large power connector from the power supply the the motherboard connector. Take care in not forcing the connector which may bend a pin. Install RAM Memory into their sockets and check to be sure they are puched in completely. Re-connect all other devices such as controllers, expansion cards and finally the drives. Check the sound, and videos cards for proper installation. Did you install your internal modem, or scanner adapter card? Connect the leads to the On-Off switch as well the hard drive indicator. After all connections and components are installed, stop and go back to check again, and then, check some more. Replace the system unit cover once you know all is well. Your system should now be ready to go. The motherboard may come with a cdrom containing device drivers and other software utilities that may be required to be installed. Now try turning on the computer and if the POST completed without a hitch, you're there. If you experience problems, go back and check all connections and devices. Ita that easy to install or upgrade not only the motherboard, but nearly every other component in the system unit. Get busy understanding your computer now and save big on future PC repair costs.

         
    How to replace a power supply

     

    The power supply is the component that powers your devices in your computer. It powers things like the hard drive, CDROM and CPU. There may come a time when you have to replace it. Symptoms of a power supply going bad can include random reboots, random crashes the computer not starting at all. When replacing your power supply there are a couple of thing to take into consideration. The most important thing to do is to get the right one for your computer. Your computer will most likely use the ATX form factor. You also need to make sure you get a power supply with enough power for your computer's hardware. 300-400 watts is sufficient for most computers. Make sure the power supply has enough power connections and the right types of connections. Replacing the power supply is a pretty easy job. Make sure you unplug the power cord first! Then you can open the case and take the power connections off of the devices and motherboard. Then you can take out the four screws on the outside back of the case and pull the power supply out from the inside. To install the new one just do the opposite.

         
    How to replace your ipod battery

     

    iPods are a great invention, however many have complained about the lack of playtime and poor battery life. Previously, replacing an iPod battery was next to impossible. So when your battery dies, its time for a new iPod. This of course proved to be extremely expensive. As a result, manufacturers have begun producing aftermarket iPOD batteries for a DIY conscious producer. There are even high capacity batteries that will basically give you more playtime on your iPod in comparison to the original iPod batteries. An even better incentive to replace that dying battery! I know what you’re thinking, you don’t want to rip apart that shiny iPod of yours! Aftermarket iPod batteries were designed to make the installation as simple as possible (it wasn’t really all that difficult to begin with anyway). Since the batteries installation doesn’t require any soldering, the most difficult part is opening up the physical case. Since the iPod doesn’t contain any screws, the casing must be pried off in order to access the internal battery. I do not recommend using a screwdriver to do this as it will damage the case. A guitar pick has been recommended to do the job, but even better, some batteries come with the non scratch nylon tools required to open your iPod safely. Below are some instructions on how to install your battery. I am aware that there are more than one Steps to install the battery: • Lay your iPod on a piece of cloth o non scratch surface. Using your non scratch tools, slowly insert it under the cover and begin to pry off the cover. You should hear it begin to open. Work your way by sliding the tool all around the edges. • The iPod is basically made of two halves. With both halves separated, put the empty shell aside. • The other half will have all the internal components in there. You should be able to spot the battery in there. You will see that the battery is connected to the main circuit board of your iPod. Carefully unplug the old battery by pulling on the end of the connector. • Get your new battery and plug in into the connector socket on your iPod’s circuit board. The connector will only go in one way so do make sure you insert it the right way up. • Once it’s all connected up, put the cover back on by pressing the edges of the two halves together. • Plug your charger in and let your new iPod charge up for at least 4 hours. All new batteries should get a longer than normal charge the first time around. • Now you’re ready to enjoy your music once more!

         
    How to sell used computers

     

    Many people sell their used computers for a variety of reasons. Some sell their used computer instead of throwing them as a trash get some money from them, while others sell their used computers to buy new computers with the latest features and technology. Not only individuals sell their used computers, but also large numbers of organizations or firms sell their used computers. They do so because the computer systems may require maintenance and repairs, after some time due to the decrease in performance seen in the computers after some years. Instead of spending more money on the maintenance and repairs they sell and gain money, as there is a great demand for used computers. Such companies easily sell their used computers online through auctions or exchange for new computers with less effort in no time. Used computers are bought by either students who do not have good savings or earnings or they are bought by educational institutions like the schools and universities. Some parents buy used computers for their children just for browsing the Internet and to play games. For this purpose, a used computer is more than sufficient than spending huge amounts on a new computer. These target segments however require used computers in a good working condition as well as for a lesser price. Most of the used computers are sold in the online market, as it attracts all sorts of buyers. There are many numbers of online classifieds or auctions or online dealers who sell used computers. Selling used computers are a better option than throwing them as trash or keeping them in a corner occupying space and collecting dust. The first and important step is to improve the appearance of the used computer by wiping it clean free of dust and dirt. Any buyer would get impressed by the way the computer looks, looks make the first impression. The selling price of a clean used computer is always better than the one, which is full of dirt and dust. All the software manual, operating system and other supporting discs that came with the computer should be in tact. This will add more value, when selling the used computer and also will make the buyer consider the person who is selling the used computer as a trusted seller. The most important thing to do before selling a used computer is to erase all the personal details or information from the hard disk or drive. Instead of just putting them in the trash folder it is very important to purge all the personal data from the computer’s memory, even invisible backup files can cause danger. A tech savvy person’s help can be got if the seller does not know how to do it. If not done it may lead to accessing the bank accounts, or emails by any unknown person leading to identity theft. For that when there is a remedy. Unused scanners, printers can also be bundled with the sale of the used computer. A buyer may sometime value it. The benefits or features of the computer can be highlighted for better sales.

         
     
         
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